Semporna Islands Travel Guide, Sabah, Malaysia

This summer, I had the opportunity to visit the state of Sabah, located in Malaysian Borneo—a destination famed for its natural beauty and wildlife. Although I didn’t get to explore the rainforests with orangutans and pigmy elephants, I explored the Sabah Islands in Borneo, specifically the Semporna Islands. Thanks to the Sabah Tourism Board for organizing my trip, I experienced these Malaysian islands, which offer some of the best diving opportunities in Southeast Asia.

The Semporna Islands have a rugged, untouched appeal, with marine life and viewpoints like Bohey Dulang adding to their natural beauty. For divers, Sipadan Island is a highlight with its a protected marine area. However, the area’s remote nature brings certain challenges that may impact the experience. Here’s my complete guide to exploring the Semporna Islands, located within the Sabah Islands in Borneo.

Where Are the Semporna Islands Located in Sabah, Borneo?

The Semporna Islands are part of the Sabah Islands in the eastern region of Borneo, Malaysia. This tropical archipelago is part of the Coral Triangle, home to some of the richest marine biodiversity in the world. Known for its diving mecca, Sipadan Island, the Sabah Islands in Borneo offer an unforgettable experience for snorkelers and divers alike.

Semporna Town is the main gateway for travelers heading to the islands off Sabah’s eastern coast. While it’s not a destination I’d personally recommend, it’s important to note that the town faces significant infrastructure and pollution challenges. Despite this, it plays a crucial role in supporting the local economy and serves as the entry point to one of Malaysia’s most beautiful marine environments.

How to Get to the Semporna Islands

Getting to the Semporna Islands in Sabah requires a mix of transportation. My journey began with the Malaysia Airlines flight from Kuala Lumpur (KL) to Tawau Airport (MH 2660), which arrived at 9:25am. Once we landed at Tawau Airport, Sabah Tourism organized the rest for us. Here are a few things you should keep in mind to make your trip smooth:

1. Flight to Tawau: Malaysia Airlines, Air Asia and Batik Airways operate regular flights from Kuala Lumpur to Tawau, taking approximately 2.5 hours. When you land in Tawau, don’t expect to find an airport like KLIA—it’s small and basic, with limited facilities. It’s worth noting that the departure terminal had no air conditioning, so I wouldn’t recommend arriving too early for your return flight, as we did—it can get quite hot. When booking your flight, make sure your flight timing aligns with the boat schedule to your resort, otherwise, you’ll need to arrange and pay for a separate transfer. For instance, our resort offered boat departures from the port at 10am and 1pm, while the return boats left at 11:30am and 2pm from the resort.
2. Immigration Check: Even though Sabah is part of Malaysia, there’s a separate immigration process when entering and leaving the state. Upon arrival at the airport in Sabah, you will need to go through immigration and have your passport stamped. This applies to all travelers. It’s important to remember that when leaving Sabah, you’ll need to pass through immigration again and get your passport stamped. Failure to do so could cause issues when returning to the mainland, such as Kuala Lumpur.
3. Transfer to Semporna: From Tawau Airport, our resort had arranged a private transfer (organized by Sabah Tourism) to take us on the 1.5-hour drive to Semporna Town to the Seafast Jetty. The drive is stunning—lush palm tree forests and stretches of rolling hills. But one thing to keep in mind: people in Sabah drive fast. I was freaking out at first, but you’ll get used to it—just don’t look!
4. Boat Ride to the Resort: Once we arrived at the Semporna Sefast Jetty (the port), we boarded a speedboat arranged by the resort. The ride took around 40 minutes.

Best Time to Visit Semporna Islands in Sabah

The Sabah Islands experience tropical weather year-round, but the best time to visit is during the dry season, which runs from April to October. During these months, the waters are rather calm, the skies are mostly clear, and the visibility for snorkeling and diving is at its best. For divers, this is prime season as well. If you visit between November and March, expect monsoon rains and choppier waters, which can make activities less enjoyable and harder to plan.

The Best Things to Do in the Semporna Islands

As you’d expect from an island paradise, the best things to do in Semporna revolve around the water. Whether you’re island hopping, snorkeling, or diving, the marine life here is simply incredible. Here’s a closer look at the top activities you absolutely must try:

Island Hopping

Island hopping is a popular activity in Semporna, and most resorts (like Arcadia Beach Resort) offer all-inclusive packages that include meals, transfers, and island-hopping tours. However, not all islands are worth going ashore on—many beaches are unfortunately strewn with plastic debris, which was upsetting to see. I recommend focusing on the snorkeling and diving opportunities around the islands instead.

• Mataking Island: This was our first stop on our island hopping tour. Though we paid a small fee (15 RM per person) to access the beach (not the part dedicated to the resort), the experience was less than stellar. There were crowds, and the beach was littered with plastic waste, which was disheartening. However, just off the coast of Mataking, the snorkeling was phenomenal. Vibrant coral reefs, abundant marine life, and crystal-clear water made up for the less-than-perfect beach experience.
• Pandanan Island: Home to our resort, Pandanan Island also offers great snorkeling. We were lucky enough to see countless turtles swimming right off the shore.

Snorkeling

Snorkeling around the Semporna Islands was a great experience. The waters are so clear, and the marine life is so rich. One important thing to note is that life jackets are typically required when snorkeling. This is primarily for safety reasons, especially since some visitors may not be strong swimmers.

I know—life jackets may seem unnecessary if you’re used to swimming, but I actually found mine useful in some areas, like snorkeling in Mataking Island, where the corals were so close to the surface. It allowed me to float effortlessly and enjoy the view. But at spots like Timba Timba Island, where the waters were deep, the life jacket was pretty useless and it didn’t allow me to go underwater.

Diving in Semporna Islands

Full disclosure: I am not a diver, the information I’m giving you is based on what I’ve heard and researched, and not from personal experience. Use it as a starting point.

The most sought-after diving site in this area is Sipadan Island. Sipadan is one of the world’s top dive sites, located in the Coral Triangle—home to 76% of the world’s coral species, making it one of the most biodiverse marine regions on the planet. Divers flock here to witness hammerhead sharks, barracudas, and sea turtles. The government limits the number of divers each day to protect the reefs, so be sure to plan ahead and book your permits early.

Dive Sites in the Sabah Islands

Here are some of the must-visit dive spots that will make your underwater adventure unforgettable. Just a head’s up, not every resort allows for a trip to Sipadan, so make sure you check if the resort you’ve picked has this option and plan way in advance as, especially in the summer, it’s very hard to get dive permits for that island:

1. Mataking Island

Mataking Island is home to a variety of great dive sites. One of the highlights is the Garden of Eden, where the vibrant corals create an underwater garden, teeming with marine life such as moray eels, barracudas, turtles, and blacktip sharks. For turtle enthusiasts, Turtle Playground is a must-visit, where you can swim alongside numerous green sea turtles in a calm, clear environment.

The Shipwreck at Mataking adds a thrilling element to your dive, with the wooden ruins attracting large schools of groupers, parrotfish, and lionfish. This spot offers a unique mix of shallow and deep exploration, perfect for divers looking for variety. For something a bit more relaxed, the House Reef (Jetty) offers sightings of barracuda, goatfish, mullets, and smaller marine life like clownfish and basslets, making it ideal for underwater photography.

2. Timba Timba Island

Located near Mataking and easily reachable within minutes, Timba Timba Island is known for its pristine beaches and vibrant marine ecosystem. Diving deeper in the waters surrounding the island brings you to Stingray City, where majestic stingrays glide gracefully through the blue. You’ll also spot cuttlefish, nurse sharks, sea snakes, and colorful coral trout, making this site a must for those eager to see rare marine life.

3. Pandanan Island

For shallow dive enthusiasts, Pandanan Island is just a few minutes away and offers a perfect opportunity to explore macro marine life. The area is home to a variety of turtles and small, colorful creatures like nudibranchs, sea slugs, gobies, and crabs. Be on the lookout for the elusive frogfish, which blends into the sandy bottom and makes for an exciting find. It’s a great spot for photographers and those who enjoy spotting rare, camouflaged species.

4. Sipadan Island: One of the Top Diving Sites in the World

Known for its rich biodiversity, Sipadan offers divers the chance to encounter large pelagic species like hammerhead sharks, barracudas, and sea turtles on almost every dive. A day trip to Sipadan typically includes 3 dives, and permits are required due to conservation efforts. The number of visitors is limited each day, so make sure to book in advance. The underwater world here is unmatched, with an abundance of fish and vibrant coral reefs.

Sipadan is around an 80-minute boat ride from Pandanan, Timba Timba and Mataking Islands (which are all close to each other).

Note: Usually, to visit Sipadan Island, a minimum stay of 4 days and 3 nights is required at resorts. Permits are limited, and guests must have a minimum of Advanced Open Water (AOW) certification to dive at Sipadan.

Diving Costs and Logistics

Diving in the Semporna Islands is an incredible experience, and the costs reflect the level of service and the conservation efforts to protect these underwater ecosystems. Here’s what you can expect in terms of pricing if you’re staying at one of the private resorts:

• Diving Cost around Mataking, Timba Timba and Pandanan Islands: Around 450 RM per person (includes boat, equipment, and dive master).
• Diving Cost at Sipadan Island: Not all resorts offer this option, so make sure you do your research in advance to avoid disappointment. Prices vary depending on the package and permit availability. The cost of the Sipadan trip depends on the number of guests and whether you’re diving or snorkeling. Here’s a breakdown of the costs:

Sipadan Trip Boat Fee (approximate):

• 1 Guest: RM 1,200 per person
• 2 Guests: RM 600 per person
• 3 Guests: RM 400 per person
• 4 Guests: RM 300 per person
• 5 Guests: RM 260 per person
• 6 Guests: RM 230 per person

Sipadan Trip Permit Fee (approximate):

• Local Snorkeler: RM 50 per person
• Local Diver: RM 300 per person
• International Snorkeler: RM 100 per person
• International Diver: RM 450 per person

Hiking Bohey Dulang Viewpoint

The absolute highlight of my trip was the hike up to the Bohey Dulang Viewpoint, an experience that you simply can’t miss if you’re visiting the Semporna Islands. The hike is 700 meters up and takes around 40 minutes depending on your pace (I managed it in 30 minutes), but it can feel steep at times, especially after the initial section of stairs gives way to a muddier, more rugged trail.

The hike is generally shaded, so you won’t need a hat, and I highly recommend wearing good hiking shoes with a solid grip as the trail gets quite slippery and challenging in places. The trail is well-supported by ropes, and the best part is that every 100 meters or so, there’s a guide stationed along the way to assist you if needed, making the climb a bit easier if you’re not an experienced hiker.

When you reach the top, the view is nothing short of breathtaking—turquoise waters, lush green islands, and an incredible panoramic view that seems like it’s straight out of a movie. It truly feels like something from Avatar. Once you arrive at the top, you’re allowed to stay for 20 minutes to soak in the view and take photos, so make sure you make the most of your time there. Drones are not allowed, as it’s a no-fly zone, so leave those at home.

The hiking fee for the Bohey Dulang Viewpoint is 50 RM per person (for foreigners), which is very reasonable considering the beauty of the experience. Just make sure to bring some water and a snack for after the hike!

Safety in the Semporna Islands

It’s important to acknowledge that many countries still issue warnings advising tourists to avoid traveling to the Semporna Islands, due to a history of kidnappings that occurred in the past. However, the situation has changed drastically over the years, and it’s crucial to note that no kidnappings have been reported since 2013.

The Malaysian government has taken significant steps to ensure the safety of visitors, including the establishment of the Eastern Sabah Security Command (ESSCOM), which actively patrols the waters and islands around Semporna. During my stay at Arcadia Beach Resort, I saw military patrols both on the beach and around the resort, which added an extra layer of security and peace of mind.

While the region once had a reputation for piracy, today it’s a safe destination for tourists, especially on the well-protected islands like Sipadan, Mabul, and Bohey Dulang. Local authorities and resorts are committed to maintaining this level of safety, so you can relax and enjoy your trip with confidence, knowing that the necessary precautions are in place.

Where to Stay in the Semporna Islands

When it comes to accommodation, there’s a range of options to suit different preferences and budgets in the Semporna Islands, from private resorts to dive centers. However, be aware that despite the beautiful surroundings, luxury as you might expect it in other places has yet to arrive in this part of Malaysia. My stay was organized by Sabah Tourism, and we were hosted at the Arcadia Beach Resort, here’s my full experience:

Arcadia Beach Resort Review

Arcadia Beach Resort is a private resort on Pandanan Island, which sits within a small group of islands that includes Timba-Timba and Mataking. These islands are just a 5-minute boat ride apart, and you can easily spot one from the other. Arcadia is a visually beautiful property, with modern, minimalistic architecture and an infinity pool overlooking crystal-clear waters. The jetty itself was impressive—you could spot coral reefs and sea stars right from the dock. There were even turtles swimming near the resort, and I spotted several of them in just one day.

However, while the setting was picture-perfect, the resort’s food and amenities left much to be desired. The meals were buffet-style (a formula adopted by all resorts in the area), and though at breakfast I managed to find good waffles and coffee, the lunch and dinner options were underwhelming. The food in general lacked quality and taste. The seafood, which I had high hopes for since Sabah is known for its incredible seafood, was bland. So no—the food did not match a resort setting as most people would imagine it.

It’s worth noting that the resort, along with all the other ones in the Semporna Islands, primarily caters to a Chinese clientele, and as such, the food offerings are catered to their preferences. If you’re a foodie with expectations for local dishes, you will find the dining experience a disappointment. The dining area feels more like a casual cafeteria, without any proper table setting. And there’s no beverage service nor bar to order drinks. There is a vending machine where you can purchase beer (but you will need a payment app like Grab or you can ask the reception to assist you).

Another thing to keep in mind is the state of the beach near the resort, this applies to both Arcadia Beach Resort and Mataking Reef Resort as I island hopped there. Although the main areas are well-kept, the beaches on the side of the resort were, unfortunately, filled with plastic waste brought in by the tides. Sadly, plastic pollution is a widespread issue in Asia, and seeing it firsthand was a reminder of how urgent this problem is.

On a positive note, Arcadia Beach Resort is genuinely committed to reducing plastic waste. There were no plastic water bottles available. Instead, guests are provided with glass bottles for refilling. This simple yet effective practice really showed me their commitment to sustainability and protecting the environment. The resort staff is also friendly and they took good care of all the logistics, all we had to do was show up and enjoy the activities.

To be clear, I’m sharing my honest experience not to discourage you but to help set realistic expectations, so you don’t arrive with high hopes only to be disappointed.

Who Should Visit the Semporna Islands?

I can confidently say that the Semporna Islands are ideal for nature lovers and divers. If you’re passionate about marine life and the great outdoors, you will fall in love with these islands. Here’s who I think the Semporna Islands are best suited for and who they’re not yet idea for:

• Nature Lovers and Adventure Seekers: If you’re someone who’s adaptable and thrives on being close to nature and doesn’t mind trading luxury for raw beauty, then the Semporna islands are for you. The islands offer incredible diving and snorkeling opportunities, with some of the most diverse marine life you’ll find.
• Snorkelers and Divers: Semporna islands are a diver’s dream come true. Sipadan Island is world-famous for diving, and even if you’re not an experienced diver, there are plenty of other islands where you can enjoy snorkeling in calm, crystal-clear waters. During my stay, we visited several snorkeling spots with vibrant coral reefs and colorful fish.
• Not for Luxury Beach Seekers: If you’re after a luxury resort holiday, I wouldn’t recommend Semporna—at least not yet. The resorts have a long way to go in terms of services, food quality, and amenities. The beaches are often littered with plastic debris due to tides, which can be disappointing if you’re there to relax on the sand. If you’re after a luxury beach holiday with fine dining and good service, this is not the place for you—yet. However, with development, there’s potential for improvement in the future. Fingers crossed!

Semporna Town

Before you reach the pristine waters and breathtaking islands, you’ll pass through Semporna Town, which serves as the gateway to the archipelago. While the surrounding islands are incredibly beautiful, Semporna itself is a stark contrast. It’s no secret that Sabah is the poorest state in Malaysia, and the town of Semporna is unfortunately one of the most impoverished and polluted areas, which was truly heartbreaking to see, especially in a place with such natural beauty.

While Semporna faces many challenges, tourism is becoming a key driver of economic growth in the region. The resorts, diving centers, and island-hopping tours have brought in a steady flow of visitors, particularly from neighboring countries like China. This influx of tourists has created jobs and opportunities for locals, helping to alleviate some of the poverty in the area.

However, there’s still a long way to go. The region needs more investment in infrastructure, including waste management systems, to ensure that the growth of tourism doesn’t come at the expense of the natural environment. Additionally, efforts to improve local education and provide training for locals working in the tourism sector could significantly elevate the quality of service and create more sustainable growth for the future.

The Sea Gypsies of Semporna

While exploring the islands around Semporna, we had the chance to see the Bajau Laut, also known as the Sea Gypsies. The Bajau Laut are nomadic people who traditionally live their entire lives at sea, moving from island to island in small wooden boats. They rely on the ocean for their livelihood, fishing, and trading with locals.

We encountered some Sea Gypsies during our island-hopping trip. They approached us in small boats, selling coconuts and other small items, with children on board. The women, often with distinctive face coverings made from a paste that protects their skin from the sun, were a unique sight. While it was an interesting cultural encounter, it’s important to be aware that the Sea Gypsies live in extreme poverty. Many of them don’t have access to formal education or healthcare, and their way of life is increasingly threatened by environmental degradation and modern development.

Budget Breakdown for a Semporna Islands Trip

Traveling to the Semporna Islands can vary in cost depending on the season and how early you book, but here’s a rough idea of what to expect:

Flights to Tawau

Return flights from Kuala Lumpur to Tawau typically cost around €150 per person. be prepared for possible flight changes or cancellations. On my trip, Malaysia Airlines canceled our return flight and rescheduled it for the previous day. Thankfully, getting a refund and rebooking was hassle-free through Trip.com, which I highly recommend for easy refunds and alternative options. We ended up flying back with Batik Airways.

Sabah Islands Resort Costs

Most resorts in the Semporna Islands offer an all-inclusive formula, which covers almost everything you need:

• Transfers: From Tawau Airport to the resort, including land and sea transfers.
• Island Hopping: Typically included in the package, allowing you to explore nearby islands.
• Full Board Meals: Meals are included (though the quality may vary).

For a standard 3-day, 2-night stay, the cost is usually around 2,400+ RM per person (approximately €480). However, there are additional costs for extra activities:

• Bohey Dulang Day Trip: Not included in the resort package, this costs around 1,500 RM (€300) for the day trip, plus the 50 RM (€10) per person hiking fee.
• Diving near the resorts: Diving in the Semporna Islands (Mataking, Timba Timba and Pandanan) typically costs 450 RM (€90) per person, which includes the boat, equipment, and a diving master.
• Diving at Sipadan: in addition to the diving fee which should cost around 450RM, there’s a boat fee as Sipadan is about an 80-minute boat ride from the resorts mentioned before. The boat fee ranges from 230RM to 1200RM depending on how many people are on the boat. A maximum of 6 people are allowed.

Health and Safety

It’s always a good idea to have travel insurance, especially if you plan to snorkel, dive, or hike. Here are a few additional tips:

• Avoid the monsoon season (October to March) to steer clear of rough seas.
• Be mindful of marine life: While I didn’t personally encounter any, there are jellyfish and stonefish in the region, so be careful when snorkeling or diving, especially around coral reefs.
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What to Pack for Semporna Islands in Sabah

Packing smart is crucial, especially since you’re heading to a remote island destination. Here’s a list of essentials to bring along:

• Reef-Safe Sunscreen: You’ll need plenty, as the sun is strong and you DON’T want to kill the coral reefs.
• Cash: There are no ATMs on the atolls, so bring enough to cover any extra activities, tips, or small purchases.
• Snorkeling Gear: While some resorts provide gear, it’s always nice to have your own.
• Hiking Shoes + backpack + towel: Essential for the Bohey Dulang Viewpoint hike, where the terrain can get muddy and slippery. You will also need a small towel because trust me, you’re going to sweat a lot!
• Full Swimsuit: because this is a Muslim country, it’s common for people to wear full-body swimsuits or long-sleeve tops when swimming. At the resort, the majority of the clientele is Chinese, and most avoid the sun. You’ll often see them in long-body suits or covered clothing when snorkeling.
• Comfortable Clothing: For the day-to-day at the resort, you’ll want something light and breezy, but beachwear might be different from what you’re used to seeing at Western resorts, given cultural differences.

Visa

Visa requirements to enter Malaysia vary depending on your nationality. Many Western countries enjoy visa-free entry for up to 90 days, but always check the latest information before planning your trip. You will need to register for a Malaysia Digital Arrival Card, within 3 days before your arrival to Malaysia.

Malaysia Digital Arrival Card (mandatory)

Starting January 2024, if you’re heading to Malaysia, you’ll need to fill out a Malaysia Digital Arrival Card. It’s pretty straightforward to complete:

1. Head to the official website no more than three days before your arrival. Remember, you can’t fill this out any earlier.
2. Put in your personal details—make sure you have your passport handy for this.
3. Enter your flight information and the address where you’ll be staying in Malaysia.

You’ll need to fill out this card every time you enter the country. Once you submit it, you’ll get an email with the card that you need to print.